2015 West Highland Way

This is not a race report, but a pictorial guide to the West Highland Way, the 96-mile long distance footpath in Scotland. The photographs are intended to give you a sense of what the West Highland Way is actually like, so this is not just a few images of pretty views. Instead I've taken many pictures of the trail itself. If you'd like more information on any of the images, just ask.

1 Background

We did The Way in 9 days, and used Macs Adventure to book both accommodations and baggage transfer. The baggage transfer means you can hike with just a day pack and have all your other gear driven from place to place, which worked really well. We packed more in our luggage than we should have, and I'd pack lighter next time. Macs offer trips from 6 to 11 days. Regardless of length, you have a 16-mile final leg as it's not practical to split the Kinlochleven to Fort William section up. I found that hiking The Way was far nicer than running it. I started The Way in 2011 but had to drop due to blister problems. Hiking the parts I had previously run allowed me to see more and absorb more. I also found the routine of hiking each day from place to place without any form of motorized transport was sublime. This simple life strips away the noise of life and provides profound relaxation and perspective. It gave me a sense of why people go on pilgrimages, and a desire to do more long-distance hiking.

2 Getting to the Start

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  If you run the ultra, you'll start at the train station and run under this bridge to reach the official start.

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  If you start at the Premier Inn, you'll walk through this rather nice park to reach the town center.

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3 Milngavie to Drymen

The first part of The Way is easy walking from Milngavie ("mull-guy") to Drymen ("dreman").

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  The obelisk marking the start.

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  Then under the sign.

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  There are lots of baggage transfer services – we saw these vehicles at the start of the way.

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  We saw lots of bluebells in May.

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  Leave the country park.

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  There is a short detour to a distillery that we didn't take.

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  There are plenty of places for a picnic if the weather's good.

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  The beach tree inn offers picnic benches and serves food and drink.

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  The first of several road crossing on The Way, but all are easy.

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  It's country lanes from now until Dryman.

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  An ice cream from the honesty box was welcome.

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  Some humor along the way.

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  Camping in Drymen

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  Dryman is tiny, but bigger than most places you'll visit. The village is about half a mile off The Way.

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  We stayed at Braeside, a wonderful B&B.

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  The center of Drymen

3.1 Detour to Mugdock Castle

We took the short (half mile each way) detour to visit the ruins of a castle.

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4 Drymen to Rowardennan

The Way now goes over Conic Hill, which includes a tough descent, then some further elevation changes

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  This is where The Way continues after the diversion to Drymen.

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  A short detour to the peak of Conic Hill is well worth it for the views.

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  Back on The Way. The descent is long and fairly steep.

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  Into the trees at the bottom of Conic Hill. You'll see lots of these "kissing gates" on The Way.

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  Into the parking lot at Balmaha.

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  Walking the shore of Loch Lomond is pretty, but the soft ground is harder work.

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  This flight of stairs does not go that high, but it seems like it's longer.

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  We stayed at the Rowardennan Hotel, which was very nice.

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4.1 Detour to Ben Lomond

You can go up Ben Lomond from Rowardennan, but it's quite a long hike and you may need an extra day for it.

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5 Rowardennan to Inversnaid

This section of The Way has nice trails and is easy walking. The Inversnaid Hotel is a good place for lunch or a cup of tea, but we didn't stay there.

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  The original path followed the Loch, but this is being repaired, so we had to take the high road.

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6 Inversnaid to Ardlui

This section of the trail is often considered the toughest, and progress tends to be slow. We stayed at the Ardlui Hotel, the other side of the Loch.

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  The Inversnaid Hotel

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  The building just shown on the right is the Bothy.

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  The inside of the Bothy – free accommodation, if rather rudimentary.

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  You have to raise the ball to call the ferry to get to the Ardlui Hotel.

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  The restaurant.

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  The view from our room.

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  Lots more gear than we needed!

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  If you're staying at the Ardlui, be aware of the ferry times. We arrived just in time for their lunch break.

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7 Ardlui to Tyndrum

The Way starts to change from trails to old roads; the main road last used in the 1930's, old drovers' roads and 18^th century military roads.

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  Beinglas Farm, with various camping and accommodation. There are also hotels in Inverarnan, just the other side of the bridge.

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  We passed some ugly construction.

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  The cows won't get out of your way like the sheep do.

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  Under the rail lines.

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  And under the road.

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  There can be a lot of mud in this section.

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  St Fillian's Priory, established in 1318.

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  The Wigwams offer supplies and accomadations.

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  Ledgends and history abound.

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  Entering Tyndrum.

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  We stayed at Tigh-Na-Fraoch, which is run by Heather, an ultrarunner and a wonderful host.

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  You get to know many of your fellow travelers, often seeing them every day on the trail and at the stopping places. This wonderful group of folks from Coventry was with us the whole way.

8 Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy

Another easy section.

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  The Bridge of Orchy Hotel, a comfortable place at any time, but especially welcome in this weather.

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  One of the few road crossing where you have to pay close attention.

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  There are a number of free camping spots along The Way.

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  I sometimes felt I was in Downton Abbey.

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  Our room was in a newer extension, not the hotel itself.

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  The hotel in better weather.

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9 Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse

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  The actual Bridge of Orchy. I'd expected something more dramatic, I must admit.

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  Saying goodbye to the hotel.

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  The views from this section were wonderful.

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  The Inveroran Hotel.

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  This is King's house, the 18^th century inn and the only accommodation for miles around. It's hard to get a place unless you book well in advance, and many hikers had to take a taxi to and from a distant location. Some folks found they were not back on the trail until mid-morning.

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  The King's House is not as plush as the other accommodation, but I loved it's character and felt like I was in Foyle's War.

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10 Kingshouse to Kinlochleven

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  You're close to the A82 for some of this section, but not for long.

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  The Devil's Staircase is not as bad as the name suggests, but it is pretty steep.

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  The Way enters Kinlochleven.

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  We stayed at the Highland Getaway, a very comfortable B&B, but without as much character as other places we stayed.

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  The Ice Factor has an indoor ice climbing wall that's worth seeing.

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  Kinlochleven is a pretty little town.

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  Like every town in Britain, there is a war memorial, and I like to pay my respects whenever possible. "Poppies for young men, death's bitter trade."

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  This bench by the memorial elegant and appropriate.

11 Kinlochleven to Fort William

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  Back on The Way

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  This is the view everyone seems to photograph.

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  The original end of The Way.

12 Exit Through The Gift Shop

The Way has been extended so that you now have to walk through the commercial center of Fort William. It adds some extra distance, but is rather jarring after being in the wilderness for so long. The new end is rather nice as there are benches to sit and wait for you fellow travelers in good weather.

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