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==Cheshire Shoe Repairs and Reebok Studs==
Cheshire Shoe Repairs provide a variety of outsoles, and I've used their "Pyramid Cross Country", which is labelled as Reebok on the outsole. It's a 8mm stud, and provides good grip on most surfaces. It's good on soft mud and most rocks, though it fails on some slick rock. It's surprisingly okay on concrete or asphalt, but that's not its forte. You can add metal spikes for winter running (see below), though it's awkward to get the spikes into the studs. The studs don't last as long as the rest of the shoe, and as the studs round off, the traction is reduced more than you might expect. (I've not been able to find this sole other than at Cheshire shoe repairs in the UK.) https://www.cheshireshoe.co.uk/running-shoes-resoles-repairs/
==The Key Cobbler Kendal and Vibram Peak District==
The Peak District outsole has 8mm lugs in a dog bone pattern. I've found this outsole to be as good or better than the Reebok outsole on all surfaces and seems to be much harder wearing. There are some slick rocks where it doesn't grip, but that's rare. The main downside is that you can't get metal spikes into this outsole as the lugs are too narrow. (Another downside is the cost compared with the Reebok, but prices have increased over the last few years for both.) https://keycobbler.co.uk/collections/running-shoe-repairs
==Vibram Zegalite and Vibram Zegama==
I've not tried either of these outsoles, as the Zegalite is only 4.5mm and the Zegama is only 4mm, which isn't much different to a standard trail running shoe.They are available at a number of cobblers in the UK. ==Lancashire Sports Repairs==I've not used LSR, but they have their own outsole with 10mm studs. They don't provide photos and they didn't respond to my email enquiries. They will resole Walsh shoes, but don't appear to put a Walsh sole on a non-Walsh shoe. https://lancashiresportsrepairs.co.uk/running-shoe-repairs-and-resoles/
=Adding Metal Spikes=
I screw in supatracks metal spikes for winter running, which adds grip on icy surfaces. They are awkward to screw into the Reebok sole, but it's possible with a little practice and swearing. These spikes can add extra grip on some slick rock, as the metal spike digs though any surface film. However, on harder smooth rock, they seem to have less grip, so it's not a perfect solution. The metal studs reduce the wear a little on the Reebok sole, and only rarely come out. The main downsides are cost and effort adding them, which can be a bit of a pain.
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Frankenshoes spike.jpeg| The smallest of the supatracks spikes, the 1100 1000 (https://supatracks.com/boot-studs/in the UK, https://www.best-grip.se/ in the EU)
Frankenshoes spikes in shoe.jpeg| The spikes in the sole, after some distance. The sole has worn down around the spike, and you can see where one is starting to break free. However, actually losing a spike is unusual.
Frankenshoes spike tool.jpeg| The spike in the tool used to insert it. This is tricky, and I had to file the tool down slightly to get a better grip, and I have to use vice grips to hold the screw end and push the tool on hard. Unlike a screw, the spike doesn't have a tapered thread, so it's hard to get it started.
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==Screw in or Slip On?==
The alternative to screw in metal spikes is to have an overshoe that has additional grip. Common brands include Yaktrax or Kahtoola exospikes, and I've used both. The advantage of the screw in spikes is they work in all conditions, and the additional grip can be handy on some surfaces even in summer. The screw in spikes add little weight and are always there. Overshoes are relatively heavy, and have to be put on when needed, and that can be hard if the weather is cold. Stopping to put overshoes on snow covered shoes with cold hands is a grim experience sometimes. I've also had problems on mixed surfaces, where there's exposed rock and ice with Yaktrax falling apart. Overshoes are also heavy and bulky to carry, so I've given up on mine completely, and prefer screw in spikes. (If you need crampons, then you need crampons, and spikes won't help. I have Kahtoola microspikes, which are a half way to crampons that work with running shoes, but rarely use them as I don't like running when things are that bad.)
=Converting road shoes for technical trails=
I have converted a few road running shoes for technical trail use with mixed results. Other than the outsole grip, the main difference between a road and a trail shoe is how well the upper grips your foot. I've put the pyramid outsole on the Altra Torin which produced a remarkably comfortable shoe that has excellent traction and works really well for nontechnical trails. But when things get gnarly, the shoe isn't close fitting enough to give the agility you need. Converting a road shoe that has a Pebax foam midsole creates a hybrid that works reasonably well on hard, relatively smooth trails. The trails need to be close enough to asphalt for the bounciness of the pebax foam to work. On trails that are even vaguely technical, the bouncy foam becomes unstable and creates significant additional ankle stress. Of course, if you’re on a course that transitions between easy, firm, trials and asphalt, then the Pebax foam might work well.