Difference between revisions of "Best Running Lights"

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<html><div class="thumb tright"><div class="thumbinner" style="width:328px;"><img alt="" src="http://www.petzl.com/files/fckfiles/image/IMG/SPORT/fonds-ecran/running-1024x768.jpg" width="328" height="238" class="thumbimage" />  <div class="thumbcaption"><div class="magnify"></div>Trail run under the stars near the summit of "La Montagnette". Vercors, France.
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[[File:PetzlHeadlampRunningNight.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Image from Petzl Wallpapers.]]
(c)Vincent Favre <a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/petzl-sport-wallpapers-us" class="external text">More wallpapers at the Petzl.com.</a>.</div></div></div></html>
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I've run with many different running lights over the years, and I've seen the quality and brightness increase as the cost has fallen. There are many good running lights on the market, but having tested many, there are just three I'd recommend, each for a different purpose.  The best light for urban running, when it's more about being seen than seeing, is the Black Diamond Sprinter. It's small, rechargeable, bright, balanced, with an even light, and has a rear flashing red LED built in. However, the light I use most is the Light Belt, a waist mounted light that allows you to see the shape of the ground ahead, and I prefer it even on asphalt. And while I almost never use the Petzl e+lite, it's my faithful "oops" light I carry as a backup.
 
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=Light Belt=
There are many lights available for runners depending on your need, but some are far better than others. Below is a summary of my recommendations, followed by a look at the key factors to look for in a light and then a look at each light in turn.  
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I love waist mounted lights as you can see the shape of the ground so much better. This style of light is relatively rare, and I've been pleased to work with Light Belt as they've developed and refined their product. I found this is the light I've used consistently, even for running on the relatively smooth asphalt of my local Greenway. If you've not run with a waist mounted light, I'd suggest playing around with your head mounted light, taking it off and moving it to your waist and seeing how your perception of the ground ahead of you changes. Once you've made to the switch, it's hard to go back. You can buy them at http://www.light-belt.com.  
{| class="wikitable"
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* On full brightness the beam is brighter than I need (700 lm), so I typically run with it a notch or 2 down. I often run with the light belt at a relatively low intensity, especially just before dawn as it balances the rising light levels and is strangely less claustrophobic.
! Light
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* The light is perfectly smooth and even, and being a waist mounted, shows the shape of the trail and any obstacles so much better than a head mounted light. (I have the "silver lens" version that has the smooth beam pattern. There is a "reflective mirrored" option that has a more focused beam pattern, but I'd recommend the even illumination as a priority.)
! Why it's recommended
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* The belt works remarkably well, with almost no bounce. The light sits on a small foam pad for stabilization but uses a thin (1 inch/2.5cm) belt to go around your waist or hips. The clasp a surprisingly clever magnetic system; just bring the 2 ends close together and the magnets click it closed. To unclasp you have to slide the 2 ends vertically, as you can't pull them apart. This seems like a massively overengineered and sophisticated solution, but I love it to bits. It works perfectly no matter how cold and tired I am.
! Cost
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* You don't blind other runners as you turn to look at them, and it's easy to tilt the light so that you can see the ground ahead without shining into people coming towards you.
|-
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* The Light Belt comes with the 18650 Lithium Ion 3400 mAh rechargeable battery. These batteries are expensive, so expect to pay over $20 for a genuine one, and watch out for fakes. That said, these batteries are expensive for a reason, having excellent power density and life. Being rechargeable, you can carry spare batteries if you're running all night and need full brightness. (The light works as a recharger for the battery, as the battery itself has overcharge protection. Just plug the micro USB cable into the light.)
| [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E87-P2-Myo-Headlamp/dp/B004OYTOA0 Petzl MYO RXP]
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As always, there are some downsides to the Light Belt, but relatively few:
| The best head light available for a reasonable cost
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* The Light Belt is waterproof to IPX6, so it's fine in heavy rain, but not submersible. This shouldn't be an issue unless you are doing waist deep stream crossings.
| $90
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* There is no flashing light at the back. I simply purchased some cheap clip-on flashing safety lights which are cheap and effective.
|-
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* You can't use a waist mounted light to look at your watch, though most running watches have a backlight. It's also harder to use a waist mounted light to rummage through a drop bag, though I found I can hoist the Light Built up around my chest and pointed down and it works pretty well.
| [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E89-TacTikka-Headlamp-Colored/dp/B000JUB2QC Petzl Tactikka XP Adapt]
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<gallery widths=300px heights=300px class="center">
| The best head light that can be waist mounted (great for dark trails)
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File:Light Belt (1).jpg
| $70
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File:Light Belt (2).jpg
|-
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</gallery>
| [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E89-PC-Tactikka-Camouflage/dp/B000J927AS Petzl Tactikka XP]
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=Black Diamond Sprinter=
| This is the same as the [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E89-TacTikka-Headlamp-Colored/dp/B000JUB2QC Petzl Tactikka XP Adapt], but without the option for waist mounting.
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The Sprinter is my top pick for head mounted lights, available at <jfs id="B01LE9ZA28" nonl="true" noreferb="true"/>.  
| $60
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* The flashing rear safety light is a great idea, and critical for urban running. The safety light comes on with the main light, but you can override this to turn it on and off independently.
|-
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* Having the battery pack at the back balances the weight of the light and makes it seem particularly lightweight. It also allows you to put the batteries under a hat to keep them warm, though that obviously prevents the safety light from being seen.  
| [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-Nao-Reactive-Lighting-Headlamp/dp/B007K03OU6 Petzl Nao]
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* There is a strap that goes overhead helps stabilize the light without needing the headband too tight.
| Automatic lighting level adjustment
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* The Sprinter has a regulated output, so it will stay the same brightness until the batteries are nearly flat. (See below.)
| $175
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* I wish the Sprinter was better waterproofed, but splash proof to IPX4 should be fine in most situations. I've run in it in heavy rain without any issues, so unless you drop it in water you shouldn't have an issue.  
|-
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There are some drawbacks to the Sprinter:
| [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E02-P2-Headlamp-Integrated/dp/B001SARHV6 Petzl e+Lite]
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* The Sprinter only has a diffuse beam pattern, with no spot, though in practice, I've rarely found this to be a problem, even when navigating in the woods.  
| This is a great backup/emergency light
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* For trail running you want the Light Belt or other waist mounted light
| $30
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* I'd rather have replaceable AA or AAA batteries rather than a built in rechargeable battery. Replaceable batteries allow me to have more than one set charged up at a time and just swap them over. The built in batteries should last a long time, but when they eventually wear out, you need to replace the light.  
|-
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[[File:BD Sprinter.jpg|none|thumb|200px|Black Diamond Sprinter.]]
| [http://www.runningwarehouse.com/descpage-SUSBLED.html Saucony USB Clip Light] or [http://www.amazon.com/Saucony-90299-Ulti-Mitt-Black-X-Large/dp/B0059CVCME Saucony Ulti-Mitt with Light]
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=Petzl e+Lite=
| Useful as a cheap emergency light.
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The Petzl e+Lite worth considering as a backup light, but don't use this as your primary light unless weight is of paramount importance. It's not quite bright enough for general use and the lithium batteries are pricy. However, it will fit in the pocket of my Race Ready Shorts, so it makes a great 'oops' light. I carry the e+Lite on all-day, self-supported runs where I think it's unlikely I'll be out after dark. I've misjudged things before, and an emergency light was the difference between getting home and spending the night in a snow storm on exposed fells. The e+Lite is <jfs id="B01KYTR0HM" noreferb="true" nonl="t"/>.
| $10 or $45 with the Ulti-Mitt gloves
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[[File:Petzl e+lite.jpg|none|thumb|250px|The e+Lite showing the small case it fits into.]]
|-
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=What to look for=
| [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E52-AC-Ultra-Headlamp/dp/B001N0ETU8 Petzl Ultra]
 
| Great light, but ultra expensive!
 
| $350
 
|-
 
| [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E53-Ultra-Belt-Headlamp/dp/B002SQPXYW Petzl Ultra Belt]
 
| The [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E52-AC-Ultra-Headlamp/dp/B001N0ETU8 Petzl Ultra] with the battery mounted on your waist. Useful for extreme cold.  
 
| $500
 
|}
 
There are many other LED head lights available, and most of them do a reasonable job. However, I would not use one of these cheaper lights having used the [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E87-P2-Myo-Headlamp/dp/B004OYTOA0 Petzl MYO RXP] and [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E89-TacTikka-Headlamp-Colored/dp/B000JUB2QC Petzl Tactikka XP Adapt].
 
 
 
=Types of light=
 
 
There are four factors to consider with a running light; location, the beam pattern, regulation and brightness.  
 
There are four factors to consider with a running light; location, the beam pattern, regulation and brightness.  
 
 
==Location==
 
==Location==
The three locations for a light while running are handheld, waist mounted and head mounted. I do not recommend handheld lights for several reasons. The biggest problem is that keeping the light pointed in the right direction changes your arm movement and messes up your [[Running Form]]. In addition, handheld lights occupy one of your hands making it tricky to do anything in the dark, though [http://www.knucklelights.com/ knuckle lights] overcome this. There are advantages and disadvantages to waist mounted and head mounted. Because a head mounted light is aligned with your eyes, it's hard to see the shape of the ground. This is best seen in the images below.  
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The first step in choosing a light is to work out where you want the light; in your hand, at your waist, or on your head.
<gallery widths=500px heights=400px>
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===Head Mounted===
File:RXP Eye Level.jpg|The light at eye level: Notice how 'flat' the path looks.
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Most people use head mounted lights, and they have a number of advantages:
File:RXP Waist Level.jpg|The light at waist level shows the texture and shape of the path.  
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* Head mounted directs the light where you point your head, making it easier to see where you're going.
 +
* Head mounted also works better for directing the light to things in your hands, like putting on gloves or looking at your [[Best Running Watch| Running Watch]].  
 +
* Head mounted lights are better at showing up branches or spider webs that are about to hit your face.
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* Most of the lights are head mounted, so you have the widest choice.  
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===Waist Mounted===
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Waist mounted lights are much better at showing you the shape of the ground, and any obstacles are a lot more apparent. This is because a head mounted light aligned with your eyes so there's few shadows. Below are sets of photos taken with the [https://apps.apple.com/us/app/stabilized-night-camera/id1433896496| Stabilized Night Camera app] that allows for long exposure.
 +
<gallery widths=300px heights=300px class="center" perrow="2">
 +
File:Comparing waist and head mounted lights (1).JPG
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File:Comparing waist and head mounted lights (3).JPG
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File:Comparing waist and head mounted lights (4).JPG
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File:Comparing waist and head mounted lights (5).JPG
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File:Comparing waist and head mounted lights (6).JPG
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File:Comparing waist and head mounted lights (7).JPG
 +
File:Comparing waist and head mounted lights (8).JPG
 +
File:Comparing waist and head mounted lights (9).JPG
 +
File:Comparing waist and head mounted lights (10).JPG
 +
File:Comparing waist and head mounted lights (11).JPG
 +
File:Comparing waist and head mounted lights (12).JPG
 +
File:Comparing waist and head mounted lights (13).JPG
 
</gallery>
 
</gallery>
Other considerations:
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In rain or dusty conditions, a waist mounted light will not create glare in front of your face. With a head mounted light, the beam picks up the rain or dust, and because of the closeness these particles are brightly lit. It can be hard to see through these spots, and the effect can be quite claustrophobic. It doesn't capture the full difference in visibility, but it gives you a sense of how much easier it is to see in the rain with a waist mounted light.  
* Head mounted directs the light where you point your head, making it easier to see where you're going. Head mounted also works better for directing the light to things in your hands, like putting on gloves or looking at your [[Best Running Watch|Watch]].
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<gallery widths=300px heights=300px>
* Waist mounted lights are much better in the rain or dusty conditions. With a head mounted light, the beam picks up the rain or dust in front of your face, making it hard to see.
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File:Headlight in the rain.jpg|Headlight in the rain
* Head mounted lights are better at showing up branches or spider webs that are about to hit your face.
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File:Waistlight in the rain.jpg|Waist mounted light in the rain
 
 
==Beam Pattern==
 
Most lights project a narrow spot beam, which illuminates a longer distance. Many of the Petzl lights have a diffuser than can be moved in front of the light to provide an even illumination, though it does not reach so far.  
 
<gallery widths=500px heights=400px caption="Head or waist mounted lights">
 
File:RXP Spot.jpg|The spot beam illuminates further
 
File:RXP Eye Level.jpg|The diffuse beam illuminates wider and more evenly
 
 
</gallery>
 
</gallery>
 
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If there are insects about, a head mounted light causes them to fly into your face, which is even more unpleasant.
==Regulation==
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===Handheld===
With a regulated light the light intensity will stay constant over most of the life of the battery, and it will then grow rapidly dim. This can be seen graphically below. The regulation is nice, but when the end of the regulation period is reached, the light intensity can drop very quickly, so you need to have spare batteries with you if you expect to run out of power.
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I don't recommend handheld lights for several reasons. The biggest problem is that keeping the light pointed in the right direction changes your arm movement and this messes up your [[Running Form]]. In addition, handheld lights occupy one of your hands making it tricky to do anything in the dark, though knuckle lights overcome this.
[[File:Light Regulation.jpg|none|thumb|250px|The difference between regulated and unregulated light output.]]
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==Beam Pattern – Spot vs Diffuse==
 
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{| class="wikitable"
 +
|- valign="top"
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|[[File:RXP Spot.jpg |none|thumb|350px| The spot beam illuminates further.]]
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|[[File:RXP Eye Level.jpg |none|thumb|350px| The diffuse beam illuminates wider and more evenly.]]
 +
|}
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Many lights project a narrow spot beam that illuminates longer distance, which can be handy for navigation, especially on ill-defined trails. Most of the time I prefer a light with an evenly diffused beam, even though it does not reach as far as a spot beam.
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==Regulation – Light output over time==
 +
With a regulated light the light intensity will stay constant over most of the life of the battery. When the battery is nearly depleted, the light will rapidly dim (see the graph below.) The regulation is nice, but when the end of the regulation period is reached, the light intensity can drop so quickly that you get caught out.  
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[[File:Light Regulation.jpg|none|thumb|350px|The difference between regulated and unregulated light output.]]
 
==Brightness==
 
==Brightness==
The brightness you need depends on your situation. In many cases you just need to see what's immediately ahead of you, so brightness is not critical. If you're on trails, then a really bright light can help see what direction a trail is taking, or help with navigation. Many times I've found that having a dim light can work best, as it helps me see what's ahead without compromising my night vision, allowing me overall better visibility. A very bright light will create a pool of light that can become mentally confining and isolating. Having a light that will go both very bright and very dim is ideal, and the [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E87-P2-Myo-Headlamp/dp/B004OYTOA0 Petzl MYO RXP] stands out for this.
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The brightness you need depends on your situation. In many cases you just need to see what's immediately ahead of you, so brightness is not critical. If you're on trails, then a really bright light can help see what direction a trail is taking, or help with navigation. A bright light can also help psychologically, as a small pool of light can become confining and claustrophobic. However, if there's a little more ambient light, then a dim light can work best. A dimmer light can provide enough to shoe you what's ahead without compromising your night vision. Having a light that will go both very bright and very dim is ideal, and several of the lights I recommend can provide both extremes.
 
 
=Recommended Lights=
 
I have tried over a dozen different lights, from the bad old days of incandescent lights that give a patchy yellow glow to new regulated LED lights. My two favorite lights are both Petzl as they have an effective diffuser. I've also tried lights from other manufacturers, but I've consistently found Petzl lights to be better.
 
 
 
==Highly Recommended - Petzl MYO RXP==
 
The [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E87-P2-Myo-Headlamp/dp/B004OYTOA0 Petzl MYO RXP] is a regulated light, as described above. The light will flash a few times when the battery drops too low, which gives you some warning before it runs out of power. The RXP also support brighter output that is unregulated, which is useful when you need a lot of light for a short period of time. The regulated output can be used so that you will have power for an overnight run, and on its lowest power setting it will run for 96 hours.  The RXP is also nice because it can output a very dim light. I've found this works well near dawn, where the light from the RXP on its lowest output and with the diffuser is enough to see by, but allows my eyes to adjust so that I can see a little further using the available light. I've found the RXP works well in heavy rain as long as it is in the normal position. If you run with it wrapped around your hand, the rain can get in the underside and cause problems until it dries out. The RXP uses AA batteries, so it is a little heavy, but having the batteries on the back balances things quite well. It also allows the batteries to stay warmer in cold conditions if you wear it with the back under a hat; you'll probably need two hats to make that work.
 
<gallery widths=400px heights=300px caption="Petzl MYO RXP">
 
File:Petzl MYO XP Full.jpg|Full view of the RXP. Note the battery pack on the rear of the strap.
 
File:Petzl MYO XP Close.jpg|A closer view, showing the diffuser over the light. The diffuser flips down for a spot beam.  There are two controls; the level button and the high power button.
 
</gallery>
 
 
 
===MYO RXP Battery Life===
 
The battery life chart shown below can be a little confusing. The blue area shows the settings when the light is regulated, which keeps the lighting level constant until the battery level drop too low and then the brightness plummets. Here are some examples from the chart to help explain things.
 
* On setting #1, the light will give out a steady (regulated) 8 lumens for 35 hour. The total battery life is 95 hours, but from 35 hours to 95 hours it will be very dim.
 
* On setting #8, the light will give out a steady (regulated) 71 lumens, but only for one hour. The total battery life is 54 hours, but after the first hour the light will grow rapidly dimmer.
 
* On setting #10, the light will start giving out 140 lumens, but it will immediately start to grow gradually dimmer. This drop in light level will be gradual enough that it will not be immediately detectable.
 
* The actual battery life will depend on the batteries used and the temperature. The chart is for fresh alkaline batteries at 68f/20c, and cold weather can reduce the battery life quite a bit. Lithium batteries will last longer and rechargeable batteries will last for less time.
 
* The claimed battery life matches up with my experiences. I use the [http://go.fellrnr.com?id=35454X937677&xs=1&xcust=enloop&url=http%3A//www.amazon.com/Sanyo-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B004SB1TD4 Enloop Low Self Discharge rechargeable batteries], so I get slightly less runtime than indicated, but it's close.
 
[[File:Petzl MYO XP Regulation.jpg|none|thumb|600px|This is the chart of settings for the RXP. You can only have three levels programmed in, but you have quite a variety to choose from.]]
 
 
 
==Highly Recommended - Petzl Tactikka XP Adapt==
 
The [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E89-TacTikka-Headlamp-Colored/dp/B000JUB2QC Petzl Tactikka XP Adapt] is not as bright as the [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E87-P2-Myo-Headlamp/dp/B004OYTOA0 Petzl MYO RXP], but it can be waist mounted. This works best with compression shorts/tights to prevent the light wobbling around. I've found this works far better on trails than a head mounted light. The XP Adapt uses AAA batteries, so it's lighter than the Petzl MYO RXP. If you don't need the waist mounting, then the [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E89-PC-Tactikka-Camouflage/dp/B000J927AS Petzl Tactikka XP] is the same light without the adapter kit, and it's quite a bit cheaper than the MYO RXP.
 
<gallery widths=400px heights=300px caption="Petzl MYO RXP">
 
File:Petzl XP Adapt Overview.jpg|The XP Adapt comes with a head strap and a clip for use at waist level. There is also a mount for use on a helmet which works well cycling. There are colored diffusers that I've not found useful.
 
File:Petzl XP Adapt Diagram.jpg|A diagram showing the XP Adapt with the waist mounted adapter.
 
</gallery>
 
 
 
==Petzl Nao==
 
The [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-Nao-Reactive-Lighting-Headlamp/dp/B007K03OU6 Petzl Nao] is a sophisticated light that automatically adjusts the brightness. There are two bulbs, one with a diffuse wide beam and the other with a narrow focused beam, along with a light sensor. When the light is pointing slightly down, the wide beam is used, and when you look up, the focused beam comes on as well. When you look at something close up, the wide beam comes on at a dimmer level. This works quite nicely when running, as it uses the wide beam when you're looking near your feet, and a longer throw when you look up to see further ahead. If you look at your watch (or anything else close up) it uses a dimmer light. You can also program the light using a computer (PC or Mac) to set the intensity of the three beams (wide beam, narrow beam and wide beam close up). However, the close up mode is also activated if a light is shining at you, making it a poor choice for running near oncoming cars. You can change to a constant mode, but that defeats the purpose of the light somewhat. The Nao comes with a rechargeable battery, but can also take 2 AAA batteries and you can buy [http://www.amazon.com/Accu-Rechargeable-Battery-YYYY-Petzl/dp/B007K03LCC spare batteries] for about $60. The battery life varies on usage, so if you're doing a longer run, you'd want to carry spare batteries. The rechargeable batteries probably make this unsuitable for many overnight ultras. The headband is different to other Petzl headlights, and it works okay. It's easier to adjust, but I didn't find it as comfortable as the RXP. There is a$30 [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-Extension-Cable-For-Size/dp/B007K03PLY optional kit] to put the battery on your belt, which is great for extreme cold conditions. Overall the Nao is a nice light, and worth considering if your style of running would benefit from the adaptive lighting.
 
[[File:PetzlNao.png|none|thumb|600px|The details of the [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-Nao-Reactive-Lighting-Headlamp/dp/B007K03OU6 Petzl Nao].]]
 
 
 
==Petzl e+Lite==
 
The [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E02-P2-Headlamp-Integrated/dp/B001SARHV6 Petzl e+Lite] worth considering as a backup light, but don't use this as your primary light unless weight is of paramount importance. It's not bright enough and the lithium batteries are pricy. However, it will fit in the pocket of my shorts, so it makes a great 'oops' light.
 
[[File:Petzl e+lite.jpg|none|thumb|400px|The e+Lite showing the small case it fits into.]]
 
 
 
==Saucony USB Clip Light==
 
This light is tiny, but will provide enough light in an emergency. It's so small it's easy to clip to clothing, and you can get the light included with other Saucony gear. I have the [http://www.amazon.com/Saucony-90299-Ulti-Mitt-Black-X-Large/dp/B0059CVCME Saucony Ulti-Mitt] which comes with the light and has a place for it to clip on that works well. (These are one of my favorite gloves, with the convertible cover to turn them into mittens.) One caveat is that the light does not hold its charge well, so leave it plugged in.
 
<gallery widths=400px heights=300px caption="Saucony USB Clip Light">
 
File:Saucony USB LED Light.jpg|This light is tiny and recharges via a USB socket.
 
File:Saucony UltiMitt.jpg|The Ulti-Mitt that comes with the LED light, showing how it clips onto the glove/mitten.
 
</gallery>
 
 
 
==Petzl Ultra==
 
I don't believe the [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E52-AC-Ultra-Headlamp/dp/B001N0ETU8 Petzl Ultra] offers good value for money, but it may be worth considering if you need the very best in head lighting. This light is also available as the [http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-E53-Ultra-Belt-Headlamp/dp/B002SQPXYW Petzl Ultra Belt] with the battery on a long cord so it can be waist mounted. This is a good idea if you need a light for use in extreme cold, as low temperatures sap the battery power. (Petzl used to make the MYO XP Belt, but it's been discontinued.)
 
<gallery widths=400px heights=300px caption="Petzl Ultra">
 
File:Petzl Ultra.jpg|The Ultra – Ultra nice, Ultra expensive.
 
File:Petzl Ultra Belt.jpg|The belt mounted battery pack is ideal for extreme cold.
 
</gallery>
 
 
 
=Safety Light=
 
A flashing red light clipped to the back of your waist band is a worthwhile addition for running in urban situations. The [http://www.amazon.com/Nathan-Clip-On-Deluxe-L-E-D-Safety/dp/B000MQ99GS Nathan Clip-On Safety Strobe] is less than $10.
 
[[File:Nathan Safety Light.jpg|none|thumb|300px|The Nathan clip on safety strobe.]]
 
 
 
=Batteries=
 
I use [http://www.amazon.com/Sanyo-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B004SB1TD4 Enloop Low Self Discharge rechargeable batteries] in my lights. The 'low self discharge' means that they won't go flat if you leave them in a drawer for a few weeks. I got the [http://www.amazon.com/La-Crosse-Technology-Battery-Charger/dp/B000RSOV50 La Crosse Technology BC-700 Alpha Power Battery Charger] which is more expensive than many at $50, but well worth it for keeping the batteries healthy.
 

Latest revision as of 09:34, 6 November 2019

Image from Petzl Wallpapers.

I've run with many different running lights over the years, and I've seen the quality and brightness increase as the cost has fallen. There are many good running lights on the market, but having tested many, there are just three I'd recommend, each for a different purpose. The best light for urban running, when it's more about being seen than seeing, is the Black Diamond Sprinter. It's small, rechargeable, bright, balanced, with an even light, and has a rear flashing red LED built in. However, the light I use most is the Light Belt, a waist mounted light that allows you to see the shape of the ground ahead, and I prefer it even on asphalt. And while I almost never use the Petzl e+lite, it's my faithful "oops" light I carry as a backup.

1 Light Belt

I love waist mounted lights as you can see the shape of the ground so much better. This style of light is relatively rare, and I've been pleased to work with Light Belt as they've developed and refined their product. I found this is the light I've used consistently, even for running on the relatively smooth asphalt of my local Greenway. If you've not run with a waist mounted light, I'd suggest playing around with your head mounted light, taking it off and moving it to your waist and seeing how your perception of the ground ahead of you changes. Once you've made to the switch, it's hard to go back. You can buy them at http://www.light-belt.com.

  • On full brightness the beam is brighter than I need (700 lm), so I typically run with it a notch or 2 down. I often run with the light belt at a relatively low intensity, especially just before dawn as it balances the rising light levels and is strangely less claustrophobic.
  • The light is perfectly smooth and even, and being a waist mounted, shows the shape of the trail and any obstacles so much better than a head mounted light. (I have the "silver lens" version that has the smooth beam pattern. There is a "reflective mirrored" option that has a more focused beam pattern, but I'd recommend the even illumination as a priority.)
  • The belt works remarkably well, with almost no bounce. The light sits on a small foam pad for stabilization but uses a thin (1 inch/2.5cm) belt to go around your waist or hips. The clasp a surprisingly clever magnetic system; just bring the 2 ends close together and the magnets click it closed. To unclasp you have to slide the 2 ends vertically, as you can't pull them apart. This seems like a massively overengineered and sophisticated solution, but I love it to bits. It works perfectly no matter how cold and tired I am.
  • You don't blind other runners as you turn to look at them, and it's easy to tilt the light so that you can see the ground ahead without shining into people coming towards you.
  • The Light Belt comes with the 18650 Lithium Ion 3400 mAh rechargeable battery. These batteries are expensive, so expect to pay over $20 for a genuine one, and watch out for fakes. That said, these batteries are expensive for a reason, having excellent power density and life. Being rechargeable, you can carry spare batteries if you're running all night and need full brightness. (The light works as a recharger for the battery, as the battery itself has overcharge protection. Just plug the micro USB cable into the light.)

As always, there are some downsides to the Light Belt, but relatively few:

  • The Light Belt is waterproof to IPX6, so it's fine in heavy rain, but not submersible. This shouldn't be an issue unless you are doing waist deep stream crossings.
  • There is no flashing light at the back. I simply purchased some cheap clip-on flashing safety lights which are cheap and effective.
  • You can't use a waist mounted light to look at your watch, though most running watches have a backlight. It's also harder to use a waist mounted light to rummage through a drop bag, though I found I can hoist the Light Built up around my chest and pointed down and it works pretty well.

2 Black Diamond Sprinter

The Sprinter is my top pick for head mounted lights, available at Error: Could not parse data from Amazon!.

  • The flashing rear safety light is a great idea, and critical for urban running. The safety light comes on with the main light, but you can override this to turn it on and off independently.
  • Having the battery pack at the back balances the weight of the light and makes it seem particularly lightweight. It also allows you to put the batteries under a hat to keep them warm, though that obviously prevents the safety light from being seen.
  • There is a strap that goes overhead helps stabilize the light without needing the headband too tight.
  • The Sprinter has a regulated output, so it will stay the same brightness until the batteries are nearly flat. (See below.)
  • I wish the Sprinter was better waterproofed, but splash proof to IPX4 should be fine in most situations. I've run in it in heavy rain without any issues, so unless you drop it in water you shouldn't have an issue.

There are some drawbacks to the Sprinter:

  • The Sprinter only has a diffuse beam pattern, with no spot, though in practice, I've rarely found this to be a problem, even when navigating in the woods.
  • For trail running you want the Light Belt or other waist mounted light.
  • I'd rather have replaceable AA or AAA batteries rather than a built in rechargeable battery. Replaceable batteries allow me to have more than one set charged up at a time and just swap them over. The built in batteries should last a long time, but when they eventually wear out, you need to replace the light.
Black Diamond Sprinter.

3 Petzl e+Lite

The Petzl e+Lite worth considering as a backup light, but don't use this as your primary light unless weight is of paramount importance. It's not quite bright enough for general use and the lithium batteries are pricy. However, it will fit in the pocket of my Race Ready Shorts, so it makes a great 'oops' light. I carry the e+Lite on all-day, self-supported runs where I think it's unlikely I'll be out after dark. I've misjudged things before, and an emergency light was the difference between getting home and spending the night in a snow storm on exposed fells. The e+Lite is Error: Could not parse data from Amazon!.

The e+Lite showing the small case it fits into.

4 What to look for

There are four factors to consider with a running light; location, the beam pattern, regulation and brightness.

4.1 Location

The first step in choosing a light is to work out where you want the light; in your hand, at your waist, or on your head.

4.1.1 Head Mounted

Most people use head mounted lights, and they have a number of advantages:

  • Head mounted directs the light where you point your head, making it easier to see where you're going.
  • Head mounted also works better for directing the light to things in your hands, like putting on gloves or looking at your Running Watch.
  • Head mounted lights are better at showing up branches or spider webs that are about to hit your face.
  • Most of the lights are head mounted, so you have the widest choice.

4.1.2 Waist Mounted

Waist mounted lights are much better at showing you the shape of the ground, and any obstacles are a lot more apparent. This is because a head mounted light aligned with your eyes so there's few shadows. Below are sets of photos taken with the Stabilized Night Camera app that allows for long exposure.

In rain or dusty conditions, a waist mounted light will not create glare in front of your face. With a head mounted light, the beam picks up the rain or dust, and because of the closeness these particles are brightly lit. It can be hard to see through these spots, and the effect can be quite claustrophobic. It doesn't capture the full difference in visibility, but it gives you a sense of how much easier it is to see in the rain with a waist mounted light.

If there are insects about, a head mounted light causes them to fly into your face, which is even more unpleasant.

4.1.3 Handheld

I don't recommend handheld lights for several reasons. The biggest problem is that keeping the light pointed in the right direction changes your arm movement and this messes up your Running Form. In addition, handheld lights occupy one of your hands making it tricky to do anything in the dark, though knuckle lights overcome this.

4.2 Beam Pattern – Spot vs Diffuse

The spot beam illuminates further.
The diffuse beam illuminates wider and more evenly.

Many lights project a narrow spot beam that illuminates longer distance, which can be handy for navigation, especially on ill-defined trails. Most of the time I prefer a light with an evenly diffused beam, even though it does not reach as far as a spot beam.

4.3 Regulation – Light output over time

With a regulated light the light intensity will stay constant over most of the life of the battery. When the battery is nearly depleted, the light will rapidly dim (see the graph below.) The regulation is nice, but when the end of the regulation period is reached, the light intensity can drop so quickly that you get caught out.

The difference between regulated and unregulated light output.

4.4 Brightness

The brightness you need depends on your situation. In many cases you just need to see what's immediately ahead of you, so brightness is not critical. If you're on trails, then a really bright light can help see what direction a trail is taking, or help with navigation. A bright light can also help psychologically, as a small pool of light can become confining and claustrophobic. However, if there's a little more ambient light, then a dim light can work best. A dimmer light can provide enough to shoe you what's ahead without compromising your night vision. Having a light that will go both very bright and very dim is ideal, and several of the lights I recommend can provide both extremes.