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[[File:ChargingOnTheRun.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Charging a watch on the run can work, but it's awkward at best.]]Choosing a watch for an ultramarathon requires some tradeoffs and there's no simple answer. The main factor is battery life, as few watches can be relied on to lost more than 20 hours with GPS active. I think there are three main approaches to this problem:# [[Charge On The Run]]. This is a little cumbersome as you typically have to carry a battery pack and an adapter, or at least have them in your drop bag. Not all watches support [[Charge On The Run]], and only a subset of them do so with reasonable convenience.# Use two watches. This is also rather inconvenient and expensive, though you may be able to use to cheaper watches rather than one more expensive watch. For the second part of your run, the second watch won't have your full time and distance, so you'll need to make a note from the first watch and do some math. (Doing math late in an ultra is as difficult as it sounds.)# Extended battery life. A number of watches allow you to reduce the GPS accuracy to gain greater battery life. This lack of accuracy can be offset by using the Stryd Footpod for the first part of the race (they claim that Stryd lasts 20 hours.) Another approach is to turn the GPS off entirely and rely on a first generation [[Footpod]], in which case many watches will last several days. While the accuracy of a first gen [[Footpod]] can be better than GPS, the Footpod does not do so well if you're taking [[Walking Breaks]] or running on twisty single track.And some runners will want navigation. I see three main approaches to I wish I could provide, simple, clear cut advice, but unfortunately things are not so easy. You'll need to think about how long you'll be running for, the features that are important to you, and how much compromise you can live with. * If you need good navigation information, then I'd suggest the [[Garmin Epix]], though you'll need to carry a USB battery pack and charge on the go. File:Charge On The Epix will last for 17 hours, but using the navigation features will dramatically reduce that. For less money and better GPS Accuracy, consider the [[Garmin 910XT]]. The [[Garmin 920XT]] or the [[Garmin Fenix 3]] have more features, but worse accuracy. Run - Fenix3 (You'll still need the battery pack if you're going to use the navigation mapping with any of them2).)* For races up to 20 hours the [[Suunto Ambit3jpg|center|thumb|200px| Suunto Ambit3 Peak]] has great accuracy and a small form factor. * For races up to 30 hours the [[Epson SF-510Charge On The Run]] is the least bad an option. If you can afford it, get another watch that works better for training and shorter races, using the Epson only when you run for 20-30 hoursultras. * For races over 30 hours I'd either charge on the go, or use the [[Suunto Ambit3| Suunto Ambit3 Peak]] again. You can get 200 hours with 60 second sampling, which would give you a rough idea of how far and where you've gone for more than a week. If you're going to charge on the go, then any of the watches that support this are viable.
* Of the watches where I've not tested the battery life, there's 20 hours for the [[Suunto Ambit3| Suunto Ambit3 Peak]], [[Garmin 310XT]] and [[Garmin 910XT]]. (I only test battery life on fairly new watches as the life degrades with usage.)
* Some watches can extend the battery life by only taking a GPS fix less frequently. This can be acceptable on a straight course like the Keys 100 or Badwater, but it can be appalling on twisty trails. However, if you need more than 30 hours then this is you only option without recharging on the go.
** The [[Suunto Ambit3| Suunto Ambit3 Peak]] has 20 hours with normal GPS recording, and 30 hours at 5 second sampling, which is great. It will go as high as 200 hours with 60 second sampling. There is some course display capability, but it's not as good others. There's also the cheaper [[Suunto Ambit3| Suunto Ambit3 Run]] that gives 15 hours at 5 second sampling, or 100 hours at 60 second sampling.
** The [[Suunto Ambit2| Suunto Ambit2 R]] gives 20 hours in extended mode (60 second GPS sampling) and the more expensive Ambit2 gives 50 hours. There is some course display capability, but it's not as good others.
** The [[Polar V800]] has a stated battery life of 13 hours, but without Bluetooth I found it lasted for nearly 24 hours! The extended mode increases the rated life to 50 hour (I got just over 50 hours), and you can charge it on the run. The V800 has no map or course display.
** Garmin's latest watches use a Variable type of UltraTrac. Instead of setting a fixed update frequency like 15 seconds, they dynamically vary the GPS recording interval and use the internal accelerometer to fill in the gaps. This makes it harder to predict how long the battery will last in a specific situation, something I dislike. There's no option for a fixed frequency extended recording mode.
*** The [[Garmin Epix]] and [[Garmin Fenix 3]] use Variable UltraTrac and claim up to 50 hours.
*** The [[Garmin 920XT]] claims 40 hours in Variable UltraTrac mode.
* Avoid the [[Garmin Fenix 2]] which has mediocre [[GPS Accuracy]] even in normal mode and it has the occasional "lost satellite reception" problem.
* You can turn off GPS and use a [[Footpod]], which boost the battery life of most Garmin watches to several days. Obviously you lose navigation and while the accuracy of a [[Footpod]] can be better than GPS, the Footpod does not do so well if you're taking [[Walking Breaks]] or running on twisty single track.
* You can extend the battery life a little by avoiding using the backlight or changing the display. Showing the course outline or the map seems to drain the battery quite fast. I've had 37+ hours out of the [[Suunto Ambit2| Suunto Ambit2 R]] in extended mode with these tricks.
* You can charge some watches on the run (see table above). This is awkward at best, as you need the cable attached and to carry a USB battery pack, but some runners find this acceptable. I'd highly recommend something like this small battery pack that fits nicely in the hand - <jfs id="B005X1Y7I2" noreferb="true" n="Anker PowerCore+ mini" nonl="true"/>
* Another option, depending on the race, is to have two watches and swap part way through.
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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Best Running Watch, including Garmin, Polar, & Suunto}}
This article is a concise guide to the best running watches available today at differing prices and functionality. As well as recommendations for the best watch, I also have a few that are worth considering in spite of their flaws, and some to avoid. * The [[Garmin Epix]] has flow chart below should help guide you through the most features, though its GPS accuracy lets it down a little. It has full color maps selection process (click for navigation, something that's great when running in a strange town or out in the wilderness. It supports the [[Connect IQ]] downloadable apps to make it extensiblelarger version. ) * The [[Garmin 920XT]] can be thought of as a cut down version of the Epix, with slightly better [[GPS Accuracy]], but lacking some of the other features (mainly the color map)File:Best Watch. * The [[Garmin 310XT]] png|center|thumb|400px|This flowchart is a simple guide to finding the best value right watch for money and has all the features you're likely to need. (The [[Garmin 910XT]] has more featuresUse it as a starting point, but tends and read the detailed reviews to be understand if a little more pricy.)* If the 310XT watch is too big and really right for you want something more watch like, then the [[Garmin 610]] is great, and it's often available refurbished at a great price. * The [[Suunto Ambit2]] and [[Suunto Ambit3]] are both great watches, with excellent [[GPS Accuracy]]. For most runners the cheapest of the range (Ambit 2 R/Ambit 3 Run) are the best choice, but Click for ultrarunners the extra battery life of the (Ambit 2/Ambit 3 Peak) may be worthwhile. * The [[Garmin 620]] has a lovely usability, but it's more expensive than the 610 and you can't get your current [[Pace From A Footpod]]larger version. * For [[GPS Accuracy]], the [[Polar V800]] is the best, but it falls short in many other areas. * Several watches use [[Optical Heart Rate Monitoring]], but I've not found any of them accurate enough for real world use. * Consider using a [[Running With A Smartphone| Smartphone]]; if you already have one they are a cheap option and can have outstanding [[GPS Accuracy)]]. =Comparison=Here's a table of these features for each of the watches I recommend (all have GPS). {{:Best Running Watch-table}}
=What to Look for in a Running Watch=
A modern running watch often has a huge number of features, but I think it's best to focus on its ability to answer these basic questions.
* '''How far did I run?''' This is probably the key feature that most runners are looking for, and it requires good [[GPS accuracy]]. How much the accuracy of a watch will impact your running will depend on the course. Overall, most watches do pretty well in straight lines, but suffer when things get twisty. My testing is a tough challenge for GPS, so it highlights the differences between the great and the appalling. With the advent of the [[Stryd]] footpod that's far more accurate than GPS and doesn't require any calibration, Stryd support is now more important than GPS accuracy. * '''How fast am I running?''' While you can work out your average pace from your distance and time, you'll often want to know how fast you're currently running. Unfortunately, GPS is rather poor at answering this question, so you need a [[Stryd]] footpod, or use [[Pace From A Footpod]] and a first-generation [[Footpod]]. An accurate indication of your current pace is important for any training program that requires running at a specific pace, and for success in racing at many distances. * '''Where am I?''' It's not unreasonable to expect a GPS enabled watch to tell you where you are or how to get back to the start. Navigation varies from a simple compass needle showing the direction to return to the start to a display of the route you've just run or a preloaded course. The Motoactv and Fenix 2 can display preloaded maps showing roads and names, while the Epix and Leikr show full color maps. * '''What's my cadence? '''A display of [[Cadence]] is a critical training tool and newer watches are able to use an internal accelerometer to provide Cadence without any accessories. Other watches may need a Foodpod [[Footpod]] or the newer Garmin watches can use the running dynamics heart rate strap. A Cadence alert will help you stay in the right cadence range, and is a useful feature.
There are several additional features to you could consider, though I'd argue none are as important as the above questions.
* '''Weight.''' None of these devices weigh enough to have a noticeable impact on running performance, but the weight can be noticeable.
* '''Heart Rate Variability'''. There is a growing interest in the possibility of using [[Heart Rate Variability]] (HRV) to evaluate training stress. While only one device will display HRV, there are several that will record HRV for later analysis.
* '''GPS Pre-cache'''. Some newer watches will download the predicted positions of the GPS satellites for faster initial acquisition. This pre-cache works remarkably well, and the data is usually downloaded automatically when the watch is connected to the internet. However, the data is only valid for a few days, so after that time the device will fall back to the usual approach of scanning for satellites.
=Comparison=
Here's a table of these features for each of the watches I recommend (all have GPS).
{{:Best Running Watch-table}}
=GPS Accuracy=
[[File:GPS Accuracy.png|none|thumb|600px|An infographic of [[GPS Accuracy]] of running watches. The top right corner represents the most accurate watches. (This graphic uses ISO 5725 terminology.)]]
Most smartphones have a GPS built in and support various applications that allow them to function as sports watches. These phones can have remarkable levels of [[GPS Accuracy]] as well as many other advantages.
=Watches for Ultrarunning=
==Battery Life==
* The claimed battery lives don't hold up in the real world, with some watches going longer, others much shorter.
* If you want the maximum battery life, you have to avoid the backlight, the use of map/course displays, and don't press the buttons unless you have to.
* In my testing, the longest battery life that's available with GPS on is 30 hours with the [[Epson SF-510]], 24 hours with the [[Polar V800]], 22 hours with the [[Garmin Fenix 3]], 19 with the [[Garmin 920XT]], and 17 with the [[Garmin Epix]].
* For ultras lasting less than 20 hours, such as 50 miles or 100 Km, you have plenty of choice and battery life should not constrain you too much.
* For 24 hour races or 100 mile races where you expect a finish in the 24-30 hour range the [[Epson SF-510]] is worth considering though the battery life is one of its few good points.
==Navigation==
For some ultras (and shorter trail runs), navigation is a problem. I've been lost on the occasional race and it's a horrible experience. Even when I've been on course, the doubts and stress of worrying can be an enormous drain. My first GPS watch was purchased so that I'd have an outline of the course I was running and there were many races where I was glad of its comforting conformation. Remember that using the navigation features of these watches will dramatically reduce their battery life.
* The [[Garmin Fenix 5X]] and the [[Garmin Epix]] has have a display that shows full color maps, so for navigation, nothing else comes close. (Well, the [[Leikr]] is even better, but it has a short battery life.) * The [[Garmin 310XT]], [[Garmin 910XT]], [[Garmin 920XT]], and [[Garmin Fenix 3]], [[Suunto Spartan Ultra]] will show an outline of your run (breadcrumbs) and allow you to load a course outline to follow.