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* '''Data Upload.''' The ability to record your workout and store it in a training log such as [[Dailymile]] or [[SportTracks]] is vital. All of the recommended watches here have that ability. I'd strongly advise even a new runner to store their data so that they can look back over the months and years to understand their progress. A watch that can upload to a PC makes recording your workouts much easier.
* '''Battery Life.''' How much battery life you need depends on how long you run for. It's best to have a watch that will last quite a bit longer than your longest run.
* '''Charges On The Run'''. For ultrarunners, one option to use a watch for longer than the built in battery lasts is to charge the watch while running. This involves connecting the cable and carrying a USB battery pack. It's cumbersome, but it can work. A value of "Yes" means that the watch will accept charge while recording and displaying as usual. Some watches have a "yes" with a caveat, such as the display not functioning or difficulty in connecting the cable while wearing the watch. An asterisk after the yes indicates a Garmin device that needs to be set with the USB mode to "Garmin" not "Mass Storage". A value of "no" means that charging is impossible.
* '''Altimeter. '''An altimeter will measure the atmospheric pressure and give you altitude. This is more accurate than GPS, but will require calibration to adjust for weather related pressure changes.
* '''[[Firstbeat| Training Effect]].''' This is a measure of how hard a training run is as a numeric value of 1.0 to 5.0, based on an analysis of [[Heart Rate Variability]].
* '''GPS Pre-cache'''. Some newer watches will download the predicted positions of the GPS satellites for faster initial acquisition. This pre-cache works remarkably well, and the data is usually downloaded automatically when the watch is connected to the internet. However, the data is only valid for a few days, so after that time the device will fall back to the usual approach of scanning for satellites.
=GPS Accuracy=
[[File:GPS Accuracy.png|none|thumb|600px|An infographic of [[GPS Accuracy]] of running watches. The top right corner represents the most accurate watches. (This graphic uses ISO 5725 terminology.)]]
=Using a Smartphone=
''Main article: [[Running With A Smartphone]]''
* You can turn off GPS and use a [[Footpod]], which boost the battery life of most Garmin watches to several days. Obviously you lose navigation and while the accuracy of a [[Footpod]] can be better than GPS, the Footpod does not do so well if you're taking [[Walking Breaks]] or running on twisty single track.
* You can extend the battery life a little by avoiding using the backlight or changing the display. Showing the course outline or the map seems to drain the battery quite fast. I've had 37+ hours out of the [[Suunto Ambit2| Suunto Ambit2 R]] in extended mode with these tricks.
* You can charge some watches on the run (see table above). This is awkward at best, as you need the cable attached and to carry a USB battery pack, but some runners find this acceptable. I'd highly recommend something like this small battery pack that fits nicely in the hand - <jfs id="B005X1Y7I2" noreferb="true" n="Anker PowerCore+ mini" nonl="true"/>
* Another option, depending on the race, is to have two watches and swap part way through.
Some runners will recharge their watch during a race, but that seems to be more hassle than it's worth as you have to carry a battery pack and the cable. (You can't charge the [[Garmin 920XT]] while it's in use, but you can charge the [[Garmin 310XT]] and [[Garmin 910XT]].)